NYFW Fall 2015: A Season Of Magnificent Proportions

Derek Lam, Thakoon, and Yigal define sophistication, no matter how you cut it

From the LifeMinute Team

February 18, 2015

Style will come in all shapes and sizes in Fall 2015, and the diverse collections at Derek Lam, Yigal and Thakoon promise there will be enough variety to go around.

At Derek Lam, urban elegance prevailed, with a touch of 70s flair...as in a literally flared pant and retro ribbed turtlenecks. But still the effect was perfectly subtle, according to Glamour Magazine Editor-in-Chief Cindi Leive, "Beautiful fabrics, great fabrics, but not too retro [in] shapes; it really looked fantastic." Although it were the trenches that stole the spotlight, given modern updates whether through a simple hood or a dramatic stand-up collar.

Hair Stylist Orlando Pita kept those elements in mind when developing the concept for the hair. "So today at Derek Lam, the collection is quite architectural, and there's a pant that goes out in a flare," he explains, "We're doing a simple ponytail but I want it to go out in a flare, too, so first, we're blow drying the hair. I like to take a little bit of the workable hairspray, spray the hair back [and add a] decoration which we made in that kind of pyramid shape."

At Yigal, the shapes were of the half-moon variety in a collection that walked the straight and narrow in terms of overall proportions. Geometric influences, sleek cuts and strong lines were the focus; the palette of soft neutrals and blacks made for a crisp and controlled look.

That look extended to the hair, as Hair Stylist James Pecis explains, "We're using a product by Oribe called the Maximista to really get the hair flat on the sides and we're cutting blunt lines on their ends so everything's very controlled and clean."

As for the minimalist makeup, the eyes have it, says Makeup Artist Benjamin Puckey, "The focus is on the eye. The skin is very fresh and natural. We lined the eyes with a cream liner and created the shape using a liner brush. There's a new minimal trend. There's a lot of, like, black liner shapes going on so I definitely see this is as a big trend."

While at Thakoon, it was a cut of a different color as wispy mid-calf dresses were made Fall-friendly when layered under sturdy wool coats and vests in a deeply rich array of seasonal shades, from browns and grays to reds and golds. Says Designer Thakoon Panichgul, "I was really feeling an opulent color palette and also richness in the fabrics."

Manicurist Gina Edwards designed a more neutral and opalescent nail look to offset the colorful collection, "We have a gorgeous glacier nail. We used two colors by Morgan Taylor: Sweet Surrender which is a sheer baby pink and Something To Blog About which is a beautiful purple opalescent color."

Model Lily Aldridge counts herself among the designer's fans. "He's such a visionary," she says of Thakoon, "[His clothes] are cool and wearable and a little bit girlie but still have an edge."

And from edgy to elegant, these latest collections show there will be offerings to suit every style in Fall 2015, any way you cut it.